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Gubelin wristwatch, circa 1955 — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Gubelin wristwatch, circa 1955

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Gubelin (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1955
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
platinum
Lot
Lot 359-45
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 45, Hong Kong,March 8, 2023
Catalogue title (original)
GÜBELIN SELF-WINDING CENTRE-SECONDS; “IPSO MATIC” “BIDYNATOR”, SO-CALLED “CHIOCCOLATONE”; PLATINUM AND DIAMONDS (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 359-45), this is a wristwatch by Gubelin, dated c. 1955. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: platinum. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

Platinum and diamond-set, self-winding, square-shaped with rounded corners, gentleman’s wristwatch, with snap-on case-back, silver colour dial with diamond-set indexes and centre-seconds.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: “Ipso Matic” “Bidynator”; so-called “Chioccolatone”; Movement No.: unnumbered; Case No.: 139 026 (by Ponti, Gennari & Cie, Geneva); Material: platinum and diamonds; Bracelet: black leather strap; Buckle: stainless steel buckle; Caliber: 11 ½ ’’’ (based on Bidynator 693, ebauche by Felsa, Grenchen / Granges), adjusted two positions; Dimensions: 40.3 x 31.3 mm.; Signature: dial, case and movement

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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