Gruen Curvex Precision 'Breguet Numerals', c. 1940s

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

One of the most famous curved wristwatch is without a doubt the Gruen Curvex, which was introduced in 1935 and almost single-handedly saw Gruen through the Great Depression. Thanks to strategic partnerships with Swiss companies like Rolex and movement manufacturer Aegler, Gruen had enjoyed success with its doctor’s watch, the Techni-Quadron (which Rolex marketed as the Prince in Europe and the British Empire). But the brand also earned a reputation for innovation in aesthetics. Throughout the 1920s, Gruen experimented with different movement and watch designs, including the Quadron, which housed a tonneau-shaped movement in a rectangular case. Despite the economic setbacks and political changeovers, the brand was poised for a comeback—which came in the form of this watch, the Curvex. Gruen had actually applied for a patent for a curved movement in 1929, through its Bienne-based agent, Emile Frey. It was granted to Frey in 1932, but assigned to Gruen. Accordingly, the movement designers at the Precision Factory set to work designing what would become a revolutionary watch movement: the Calibre 311. The Curvex that we offer here features a manually wound movement, notable for its innovative thin movement. Many watches bearing this calibre would be marketed as “Custom Curved” in advertisements. Moreover, the boxes that they came in would be curved as well, to show off the shape of the watch inside. This particular Curvex, dates to circa 1940s. Made with a 10K gold filled case, yielding a lemony tone, the watch measures 22mm in width. At its time, this watch was the peak of fashion and trend, but today, it constitutes a wonderful heritage callback to a bygone era. This beautiful piece features a stunning 'Breguet' dial and handset, and is in exceptional condition for its age. Own a piece of horological history with this Gruen!