Gruen Curvex "Falcon", 1949

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

The Bulova Curv, with its curved quartz movement, might have taken the watch world by storm when it was released last year. But it was by no means the first curved wristwatch ever created. For example, in 1916, Tissot created the “Banana” watch, with a specially curved crystal. It was made for a Russian aristocrat, who sent it back to Tissot’s headquarters for maintenance just before the outbreak of the Russian Revolution. However, it remained in Switzerland after the Revolution broke out, and served as inspiration for the Banana Centenary Edition released this year. However, the most famous curved wristwatch is without a doubt the Gruen Curvex, which was introduced in 1935 and almost single-handedly saw Gruen through the Great Depression. Thanks to strategic partnerships with Swiss companies like Rolex and movement manufacturer Aegler, Gruen had enjoyed success with its doctor’s watch, the Techni-Quadron (which Rolex marketed as the Prince in Europe and the British Empire). But the brand also earned a reputation for innovation in aesthetics. Throughout the 1920s, Gruen experimented with different movement and watch designs, including the Quadron, which housed a tonneau-shaped movement in a rectangular case. However, despite the economic setbacks and political changeovers, the brand was poised for a comeback—which came in the form of this watch, the Curvex. Gruen had actually applied for a patent for a curved movement in 1929, through its Bienne-based agent, Emile Frey. It was granted to Frey in 1932, but assigned to Gruen. Accordingly, the movement designers at the Precision Factory set to work designing what would become a revolutionary watch movement: the Calibre 311. The Calibre 311 was the world’s first curved wristwatch movement. It became so famous, and such a best-seller, that the name “curvex” became associated with the style of watch. However, since the patent was registered exclusively to Gruen, the only true “curvex” watch from the period is the Curvex. The Curvex that we offer here measures 48mm lug to lug, features the Calibre 440- the third generation of the movement--- and dates to 1949. Featuring a 14K gold filled case, this watch has developed a beautiful lemony tone. The dial, a dark charcoal black has patinaed evenly and beautifully. The dial is complete with gilt finishes and signed "Gruen Curvex Precision". This model, named the Falcon for its articulating lugs, was only made for 3 years. Without the Curvex, it’s quite possible that the brand would have gone under a lot sooner than it did. Fortunately, the sales of the watch—Gruen’s flagship—would bolster the company well into the 1950s, when the model was discontinued. Shortly after, Gruen would sell off the Precision Factory, which was eventually bought by Rolex. The Curvex occupies a special place in the hearts of many collectors, who appreciate it for its revolutionary design.