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Gruen Airflight "24-Hour Dial", 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Gruen Airflight "24-Hour Dial", 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Gruen (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
GRNAF
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (GRNAF)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Gruen Airflight "24-Hour Dial" (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number GRNAF), this is a wristwatch by Gruen, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Gruen was founded in the late 19th century by German immigrant, Dietrich Grun. Based in Ohio, with production primarily handled in Biel/Bienne Switzerland, it at one point had grown to be the largest watch company in the entire US—even larger than household names Hamilton and Bulova—before eventually shuttering its doors forever in 1976. One of the brand's calling cards was their close affiliation with the aviation industry, which is where this Airflight comes in. Its unique dial holds a special secret that was especially useful for pilots – it actually tells the time in 24-hour, "military" time. How? The cut-out indices on the dial show the typical 1-12 hour markers until the time hits noon, at which point the hour markers quickly snap to 13-24 markers. For most of us, it's a novelty and a fun talking point, but for a pilot it would've been super helpful – possibly even instrumental in keeping them on course and on time. Stock # GRNAF Brand Gruen Style Airflight Model N/A Serial N/A Size Men's Material Chrome W/ Stainless Steel Back Dial Silver "12hr-24hr" Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The chrome-plated case is in excellent overall condition, showing some honest signs of use with very crisp factory finishing on display. It features a domed crystal and its original Gruen-signed crown. The stainless steel case back is in clean overall condition with minimal wear shown. The watch comes supplied on a brown Craft + Tailored leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The stunning, original silver sunburst dial is in incredible shape, with no signs of patina or age whatsoever. The gold Arabic numerals pop from under the cutout indices and match the fantastic gold combination ring-dauphine handset. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time perfectly, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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