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Gruen 17J Curvex RF # 228 Wrist Watch, c. 1935 — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Gruen 17J Curvex RF # 228 Wrist Watch, c. 1935

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Gruen (maker)
Date
c. 1935
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Lot
Item 90692225
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 118, 106th Gene Harris Watch Auction, Tom Harris Auctions (2020), via LiveAuctioneers
Catalogue title (original)
Gruen 17J Curvex RF # 228 Wrist Watch (English)

View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by LiveAuctioneers auction archive (lot Item 90692225), this is a wristwatch by Gruen, dated c. 1935. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Tom Harris Auctions

Gruen 17J Curvex RF # 228 Wrist Watch: circa 1935, correct Gruen Watch Co. 14K GF case made by Wadsworth with light wear, back has one corner that is chipped away, correct 311 movement is 17J and serial #352513, Gruen Curvex Precision dial is in poor condition and needs cleaned or restored, alligator calf replaced band, running.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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