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Favre-Leuba Bathy 160 (Ref. 53243), 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Favre-Leuba Bathy 160 (Ref. 53243), 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Favre-Leuba (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
FVLBB16053243
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (FVLBB16053243)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Favre-Leuba Bathy 160 (Ref. 53243) (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number FVLBB16053243), this is a wristwatch by Favre-Leuba, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Despite its obscurity relative to other major Swiss watch manufacturers, Favre-Leuba has the incredible distinction of being one of the oldest Swiss watch marques in existence -- with roots dating back to 1737. Favre-Leuba introduced many innovations to watchmaking and its Bathy models -- which were first introduced in 1968 -- were the world’s first mechanical wristwatches to display both dive time and a diver’s current depth. These exceptionally rare diving watches are almost never seen available on the open market, and it is believed less than 1000 pieces of the ref. 53243 were ever produced. The Bathy was initially made in two versions: One which measured depth in meters and one which displayed it in feet, with this lovely example being the feet model. These watches also featured high visibility red accents used on their dials and highly luminous hands for easy legibility in situations with poor visibility. Stock # FVLBB16053243 Brand Favre-Leuba Style Bathy 160 Model 53243 Serial 30X Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Black Millimeters 40 Strap Favre-Leuba NSA Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The unique case is in exceptional condition and believed to remain unpolished, showing only light signs of use. The original bakelite bezel is remarkably well preserved, showing no cracks or major damage, the tritium lume within the bezel all remains fully intact and matches the dial nicely. The case retains its original Favre-Leuba signed screw-down crown. The case back retains all of its original factory markings in excellent condition, the case back is signed Bathy 50, however, we believe this to be correct since the Bathy 160 and 50 retain the same reference and were produced at the same time in extremely low quantities. The original Favre-Leuba NSA bracelet is both rare and in great condition, showing minimal stretch from use. DIAL & HANDS The matte black "160-feet" dial with white and red accents is in near flawless condition, showing no signs of age or damage. The tritium lume plots have aged to a charming creamy yellow patina and exhibit no degradation under U.V. light inspection. The original tritium hands have aged a few shades darker than the dial and show no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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