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Eterna Manual-Wind Dress Watch "Glossy Gilt Black Dial", 1940s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Eterna Manual-Wind Dress Watch "Glossy Gilt Black Dial", 1940s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Eterna (maker)
Date
1940s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 36.5 mm
Stock no.
ETRMNWND
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (ETRMNWND)
Catalogue title (original)
1940s Eterna Manual-Wind Dress Watch "Glossy Gilt Black Dial" (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number ETRMNWND), this is a wristwatch by Eterna, made in Switzerland, dated 1940s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

In 1856, a couple of guys named Josef Girard and Urs Schild started a watch movement manufacturer called, appropriately enough, Dr. Girard & Schild. They rebranded a few times, first to Schild Freres, then—perhaps after realizing that neither of the previous names rolled off the tongue—they started putting the name Eterna on their watch dials. That one stuck. The brand has put out some really incredible pieces over the years, most of which fall under the sports-driven tool watch category. But this one is more military-inspired from the ‘40s—calling to mind some of the Dirty Dozen pieces—featuring a hand-wound movement housed within a stout 36.5mm case. Dress it up or dress it down, either way, there's no doubt this beauty will work as a perfect accompaniment for any wardrobe. SPECS Stock # ETRMNWND Brand Eterna Style Manual-Wind Dress Watch Model N/A Serial 28XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Glossy Black "Gilt" Millimeters 36.5 Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The case appears to have been lightly polished in the past yet retains its factory case geometry and thick even lugs. The case back retains all of its factory markings in clear and legible condition. The watch will come supplied on a 2-piece handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The glossy black with gilt printing and text is absolutely stunning, featuring a sub-dial second at 6 o'clock, creating a much more full look on what would otherwise be a simple design. The dial has a beautiful vintage aesthetic from the unique aging of the glossy finish throughout. The original radium-lumed Arabic numerals have taken on a lovely golden patina and display no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The original radium-lumed gilt hands are also in excellent condition and match the dial perfectly, showing no degradation under U.V. light inspection. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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