
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Eterna Dirty Dozen, WW2 Military Soldiers Watch, circa 1944
- Maker / attribution
- Eterna (maker)
- Date
- c. 1944
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- vws3315ps
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws3315ps)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Eterna Dirty Dozen - WW2 Military Soldiers Watch - c.1944 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws3315ps), this is a wristwatch by Eterna, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1944. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist
A Superb and Rare Eterna Dirty Dozen Military Issued Soldiers Watch Issued During WW2 in Original Condition with Military Engravings and Original Lume, c.1944 An outstanding opportunity to acquire a real honest and collectible example of a Dirty Dozen WWW Eterna wristwatch. The present Eterna is one of around only 5000 pieces of the 150,000 watches delivered around 1945. The 12 companies tasked with the job of producing the 150,000 watches comprised of Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, JLC, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor and Vertex with rumours there were in fact 13 and the 13 th company being Enicar but due to apparently Enicar was also supplying the enemy, they were quickly dropped from the job. The watches were designed to withstand the rigours of the demands of the field. The MoD specs were exactly what you would require a military watch to be - waterproof, luminous, regulated to chronometer level, and composed of a case that was rugged. Two serial numbers were required, one being the manufacturer’s number, and the other being the military store number. The dial needed to be black, with Arabic numerals and sub-seconds in order to maximise legibility. What's on Offer This Eterna member of the DIrty Dozen family of watches is in great shape given its age and intended use - it may well have seen live military action during the Second World War. The dial has remained rich black and boasts bold Arabic numerals, an outer minute track and a recessed sub-seconds dial at 6 o'clock. The original lume remains intact on the hour plots and on the original sword hands and has aged evenly across the dial to a pal green hue. The military pheon is present, an arrow on the dial which denotes the watch as property of the MoD, this arrow is also present on the case back along with other original military engravings. We have paired the watch with a military-style fabric strap in green which brings out the colour on the dial perfectly. A Fantastic survivor of WW2 and a joy to both vintage and military enthusiasts alike.
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Military, pilot and travel watches
The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.
In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.
What to look for
- Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
- High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
- 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
- Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
- Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
- GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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