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Eterna Black Gilt Chronograph, 1940s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Eterna Black Gilt Chronograph, 1940s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Eterna (maker)
Date
1940s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 38 mm
Stock no.
Product 6964295925847
Credit line
Dealer listing, S.Song Watches (product 6964295925847)
Catalogue title (original)
Eterna Black Gilt Chronograph (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by S.Song Watches (dealer), Seattle (stock number Product 6964295925847), this is a wristwatch by Eterna, made in Switzerland, dated 1940s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 38 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Eterna chronographs from the mid-century have been very popular lately and it is not hard to see why. Featuring a multitude of variations, from distinct dial styles to diverse case shapes, these timepieces have captivated the interest of collectors and as a result, have seen its value skyrocket recently. Offered here today is one fine example featuring a black gilt dial and a beautiful tachymeter-scale chronograph layout. I’ve said it before but will say it again – when a vintage watch incorporates a gilt dial alongside a multi-scale chronograph layout, it typically creates the formula for a stunning vintage chronograph, particularly when it ages gracefully. Our example here may not have preserved its original gilt sheen, but it has undeniably acquired a distinctive patina across the entire dial, imparting a unique character and intriguing overall aesthetic to the watch. Beneath all that patination are highly sober Arabic numerals which complement the intricate scales on the dial beautifully. All are housed within a fantastic 38mm stainless steel case featuring fixed wire lugs, which I am sure will wear well on most wrists. Powering it from within is the manual-winding Cal. 703, which is essentially based on the famous Valjoux Cal. 22, a high-quality column wheel chronograph movement. While Eterna may not have dedicated significant attention to developing its own chronograph calibres during this particular era, they have used modified Valjoux movements in many of its offerings, this is one such example. Considering the brand’s rich history, exceptional aesthetics, and use of outstanding mechanical movements, there is no doubt as to why vintage Eterna chronographs are considered by many to be some of the most desirable and collectable vintage chronographs in the watch collecting space. To be able to offer this piece on our site today is a real delight.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

  • Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
  • Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
  • Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
  • Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

  • Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
  • Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
  • Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph

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