Enamelled gold watch, movement with verge escapement signed 'Jams Tregent, London, 350', England, 1760-1770 — view 1 of 4
View 1 of 4 · Image: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London · original image source

Pocket Watches · Watch

Enamelled gold watch, movement with verge escapement signed 'Jams Tregent, London, 350', England, 1760-1770

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
James Tregent (watchmaker)
Date
1760-1770
Country of origin
England
Place
London
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
Enamelled gold
Dimensions
Height: 6.1 cm; Width: 4.8 cm; Depth: 2.5 cm
Accession / object no.
M.365-1923
Credit line
Given by Mr C. H. Golding-Bird

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number M.365-1923), this is a watch by James Tregent, made in London, England, dated 1760-1770. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Enamelled gold. Recorded dimensions: Height: 6.1 cm; Width: 4.8 cm; Depth: 2.5 cm. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Summary

James Tregent is first recorded in 1759 and was a member of the Clockmakers' Company from 1781 to 1808. He was appointed watchmaker to George, Prince of Wales. The early number of the movement and the rococo style of the case show that this watch dates from the early part of Tregent's watch-making career.

V&A — Physical description

Enamelled gold watch, signed 'Jams Tregent, London, 350'.

V&A — Object history

Given by Mr. C.H.Golding-Bird

Inscriptions & marks

'Jams Tregent, London, 350'

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Verge and pair-cased watches

After Christiaan Huygens and Robert Hooke applied the balance spring around 1675, the verge watch became a reasonably reliable timekeeper and the minute hand became standard. Through the eighteenth century the typical English watch was a pair-cased verge: a fusee movement with a pierced, engraved balance cock, housed in an inner case and a separate protective outer case, often of repoussé gold, shagreen, tortoiseshell or enamel.

French watches of the same period were thicker 'oignons', later replaced by elegant thinner watches following Jean-Antoine Lépine's bar-bridge calibre of c. 1770. Dutch, Swiss and German makers supplied international markets, and verge watches were made until the mid-nineteenth century as cheaper alternatives to the cylinder and lever.

What to look for

  • The pierced balance cock on the backplate: winged (continental) or with a foot (English); its style dates the watch.
  • Fusee and chain visible through the movement; key winding through the dial (early) or case back.
  • Hallmarks inside English silver or gold cases, which give a date letter.
  • Maker's name and serial number engraved on the backplate; watch papers inside outer cases.
  • Enamel dials (after c. 1720) versus earlier champlevé metal dials.

Dating clues

  • Champlevé dials: c. 1680–1730; white enamel dials thereafter.
  • English case hallmarks give the year of assay to within a year.
  • Verge watches persisted in cheap production until c. 1850.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:FuseeBalance spring (hairspring)Verge escapement

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