Gilded metal and gold chatelaine, enamelled with cupids; with gold, glass, ivory and carnelian charms. England, 1760-1770 — view 1 of 4
View 1 of 4 · Image: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London · original image source

Pocket Watches · Watch

Gilded metal and gold chatelaine, enamelled with cupids; with gold, glass, ivory and carnelian charms. England, 1760-1770

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Peter Mounier (made)
Date
1760-1770
Country of origin
England
Place
London
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
Enamelled gold
Dimensions
Height: 12.4 cm; Width: 10.6 cm; Depth: 1.3 cm
Accession / object no.
M.365A-1923
Credit line
Given by Mrs C. H. Golding-Bird

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number M.365A-1923), this is a watch by Peter Mounier, made in London, England, dated 1760-1770. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Enamelled gold. Recorded dimensions: Height: 12.4 cm; Width: 10.6 cm; Depth: 1.3 cm. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Physical description

Enamelled gold chatelaine with four plaques representing cupids with pendants consisting of two shoes, two legs with French inscriptions., a gold mounted cornelian seal, a blue-glass vase and a set of ivory tablets with gilt-metal filigree covers

V&A — Object history

Given by Mr.C.H.Golding-Bird, 1923

Inscriptions & marks

'Essayez-le'; 'Le lien naturel'

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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