
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Elgin Usn Buships "Canteen" Watch WWII, 1940s
- Maker / attribution
- Elgin (maker)
- Date
- 1940s
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- United States
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- EGNBSHIPUSN
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (EGNBSHIPUSN)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1940s Elgin USN BUSHIPS "Canteen" Watch WWII (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number EGNBSHIPUSN), this is a wristwatch by Elgin, made in United States, dated 1940s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
This Elgin canteen-style USN BUSHIPS watch is an incredibly cool, purpose-built classic from WWII. ‘BUSHIPS,’ which stands for the United States Navy’s Bureau of Ships, was a group established by Congress on June 20, 1940 (and abolished by 1966) to supervise procurement, overall design, construction, conversion, maintenance, and repair of ships for the Navy. The establishment also managed shipyards and the many tasks involved with keeping operations running smoothly. These Elgin USN canteen watches were issued to the NCDU (members of the Naval Combat Demolition Units) and underwater demolition teams (UDT) – the teams responsible for clearing the harbors and obstructions within them during the war. As a result, those men needed robust watches that could withstand a whole lot of underwater activity – and since the crown is one of the most common places for water to sneak into a watch case, Elgin and other watch companies engineered the seemingly overkill design of the chained crown cover. This is an incredibly rare and very cool timepiece with a ton of military panache – and probably more than a few stories to tell if it was able to talk. SPECS Stock # EGNBSHIPUSN Brand Elgin Style WWII Military Watch Model USN Buships "Canteen" Serial N/A Size Men's / Unisex Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black Millimeters 31.5 Strap 2pc Military-Style Canvas Strap CASE & BRACELET The anti-reflective stainless steel case is in remarkably crisp condition considering its legacy and likely use case. The bead-blasted smooth bezel also is in exceptional condition. The case retains its original unsigned bead-blasted crown, which seats underneath the watertight "canteen" style screw-down outer crown cover. The case back retains its original "USN BUSHIPS" marking, with some tooling marks present. The watch comes supplied on an era-correct two-piece "OD Green" canvas strap. DIAL & HANDS The matte black dial is in overall very impressive condition, especially when considering the age of the watch, featuring a very cool moisture indicator nestled on the outside edge of the dial between 7 and 8 o'clock. If you look closely, the words ELGIN and USN BUSHIPS are debossed in tonal black below 12 o'clock and above 6 o'clock, respectively. The original radium lume plots have aged to a creamy beige coloration that matches the inlaid lume within the syringe-style hands perfectly. Under UV light inspection, the lume in both the dial and hands exhibits no degradation and remains in seemingly perfect condition. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is functioning and keeping time perfectly, The watch appears to have been serviced in 2002, and 2019 based on the internal inscriptions of the case back.
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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