Elgin "Depollier" Military Waterproof Watch, 1920s

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Elgin was a watch company founded in Elgin, Illinois in 1864 under the name "National Watch Company." It was then renamed to the "Elgin National Watch Company" in 1874, which eventually got shortened to the Elgin we know today. At the time—and even for several decades that followed—the brand was arguably the largest watch manufacturer in the United States, having made its name initially for producing high-quality pocket watches for train engineers. The brand's first wristwatch came into production in 1910, and Elgin quickly began manufacturing incredible, purpose-built watches and instruments for the United States military. This remarkable piece is a particularly fantastic specimen from the brand's heyday, featuring an ingenious waterproof and dustproof case designed by Depollier a full decade before Rolex came out with their Oyster case design. These cases featured a unique locking crown as well as a gold heatsink on the case back to help protect the internal oils from the body heat of the wearer. According to ads of the time, these watches were designed for—and beloved by—the multiple branches of the military—including the Signal Corps—for their robust design and ability to withstand the various brutal elements associated with war. Most Depollier-cased watches feature Waltham-signed dials and movements, making Elgin-signed models like this one incredibly unique and hard to find. Despite its age and rarity, this Elgin is in incredible condition and would be a fantastic addition to any collection, especially one belonging to lovers of vintage militaria and watch ingenuity. SPECS Stock # EGNDEPMW Brand Elgin Style "Depollier" Military Waterproof Watch Model N/A Serial No. 21241728 Size Men's Material Nickel Dial Matte Black Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Military-Style Canvas Strap CASE & BRACELET The original oxidized nickel case with fixed strap bars is in exceptional condition, especially considering its age, with very few signs of wear and honest age throughout. The bottom strap bar exhibits some warping but remains intact and fully functional. The oversized locking crown is original to the watch. The caseback features its original golden heatsink, which shows some wear and patina alongside its stamped identification number. The watch comes supplied on a vintage single-pass nylon strap. DIAL & HANDS The glossy black dial is in incredible condition, especially for its age, though there are some honest markings and elements of age present, but they remain mostly invisible to the naked eye. The lumed Arabic numerals have aged to a fantastic pumpkin color and are in amazing condition. The lumed handset is in great condition as well and matches the dial perfectly. The lume on the dial and hands was likely restored at some point in the past, as this was common practice by military watchmakers to maintain the functionality of the watch. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is running, but the service history is unknown.