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Cartier wristwatch, centre-seconds, circa 1990 — view 1 of 2
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier wristwatch, centre-seconds, circa 1990

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1990
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
stainless steel
Dimensions
height 34.5 mm; width 23.8 mm
Lot
Lot 348-38
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 38, Hong Kong, March 9th, 2022
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Self-winding, centre-seconds, date; “Santos”; stainless steel and 18K yellow gold (English)

View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 348-38), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated c. 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: height 34.5 mm; width 23.8 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold, self-winding, vertical “tonneau”-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with case-back screwed by eight screws, cabochon ruby sapphire-set winding-crown protected by the crown guards; burgundy colour dial with centre-seconds.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: “Santos”; Case No.: 90 233 804; Material: stainless steel and 18K yellow gold; Bracelet: integrated stainless steel and 18K yellow gold Cartier “Santos” bracelet with deployant clasp; Dimensions: Length 145 mm. (approx.); Height: 34.5 mm.; Width: 23.8 mm.; Signature: dial, case and movement

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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