
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier wristwatch, centre-seconds, circa 1990
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (brand / maker)
- Date
- c. 1990
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- stainless steel
- Dimensions
- height 34.5 mm; width 23.8 mm
- Auction house
- Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
- Lot
- Lot 348-38
- Credit line
- Auction lot record: LOT 38, Hong Kong, March 9th, 2022
- Catalogue title (original)
- Cartier Self-winding, centre-seconds, date; “Santos”; stainless steel and 18K yellow gold (English)
View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 348-38), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated c. 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: height 34.5 mm; width 23.8 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Antiquorum catalogue description
Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold, self-winding, vertical “tonneau”-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with case-back screwed by eight screws, cabochon ruby sapphire-set winding-crown protected by the crown guards; burgundy colour dial with centre-seconds.
Lot specifications (Antiquorum)
Model: “Santos”; Case No.: 90 233 804; Material: stainless steel and 18K yellow gold; Bracelet: integrated stainless steel and 18K yellow gold Cartier “Santos” bracelet with deployant clasp; Dimensions: Length 145 mm. (approx.); Height: 34.5 mm.; Width: 23.8 mm.; Signature: dial, case and movement
Inscriptions & marks
dial, case and movement
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Automatic (self-winding) watches
Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.
What to look for
- A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
- 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
- A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.
Dating clues
- Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
- Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
- Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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