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Cartier Vendôme Jumbo automatic “Paris” dial in 18 k yellow gold ref 17003, early 1970s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Vendôme Jumbo automatic “Paris” dial in 18 k yellow gold ref 17003, early 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
early 1970s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
yellow gold
Dimensions
Case 33 mm
Stock no.
W-3360
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3360)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Vendôme Jumbo automatic “Paris” dial in 18 k yellow gold ref 17003 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3360), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated early 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 33 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

The year 1972 marked a turning point in Cartier’s history. A group of investors first acquired Cartier Paris, followed shortly by the acquisition of the New York and London branches. This consolidation reunited the three historically separate houses—divided after the death of Pierre Cartier—and laid the foundation for Cartier’s modern expansion. Another major milestone was Cartier’s partnership with Ebel, which led to relocating its watch production to La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Until then, Cartier watches were primarily made in Paris (or occasionally London), using Swiss movements. Although some production continued in Paris during the 1970s, the collaboration with Ebel allowed Cartier to significantly scale up its output in Switzerland. This new chapter began in 1973 with the launch of Cartier’s first true historical reissue line: the Louis Cartier Collection. It started with 12 models that brought iconic designs from Cartier’s golden era—such as the Tank and Santos-Dumont—into serial production, while also introducing entirely new creations like the Cristallor, Fabergé, Gondole, and this example: the Vendôme. This particular example is the largest size at 33mm ( often referred to as Jumbo ”)and features automatic winding. The rounded case has no visible lugs; instead, it has a cutout within the case to accommodate the strap. It also features Cartier’s signature cabochon-topped crown. The classic white dial is signed “Paris. Additional details include a black “train track” minute scale and, of course, the signature black-painted Roman numerals. The blued hands add an elegant touch, and no seconds hand is present, staying true to the minimalist design. This refined Cartier is fitted with a gently worn Cartier leather strap, complete with its original 18k gold Cartier folding clasp and has been fully checked and regulated by our watchmaker. Specifications: Cartier Vendôme Jumbo Reference 17003 18 k Yellow gold case in 33 mm Case number 1700312xx dates to the early 1970s White dial with Roman numerals “Paris” Blue cabochon winding crown Automatic Cal. 2670 movement Pictured Cartier leather strap, slightly used with a 18 k gold Cartier folding clasp Fully checked by our watchmaker

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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