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Cartier Tank Solid 18ct Gold Quartz, ref. 88105, 1990 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Tank Solid 18ct Gold Quartz, ref. 88105, 1990

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1990
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
Solid gold
Dimensions
Diameter 23 mm (without crown)
Stock no.
gm1612
Credit line
Dealer listing, Vintage Portfolio (gm1612)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Tank ref 88105 Solid 18ct Gold Quarz Quartz (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Vintage Portfolio (dealer), Vienna (stock number gm1612), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Solid gold. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 23 mm (without crown). The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer specification — Vintage Portfolio

Movement: quartz quarz; Dial: cream colored; Case: solid gold; Crown: Genuine; Diameter: 23 mm (without crown); Strap: real leather (red); Dial condition, as described by the dealer: The still factory original (non-refurbished) dial has slight patina.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Quartz, digital and electronic watches

Electronic watches arrived in three steps. The Hamilton Electric 500 (1957) was the first battery-powered wristwatch, still with a balance; Bulova's Accutron (1960) used a tuning fork. On 25 December 1969 Seiko released the Astron 35SQ, the first quartz wristwatch, closely followed by the Swiss Beta 21 group. In 1972 Hamilton's Pulsar introduced the LED digital watch, and LCD displays soon made digital watches cheap.

The 'Quartz Crisis' that followed devastated the Swiss mechanical industry, which lost two-thirds of its workforce between 1970 and 1984 before recovering with the Swatch (1983) and the luxury mechanical revival. Solar, radio-controlled, kinetic and connected smartwatches continue the electronic line.

What to look for

  • Battery hatch in the case back and calibre markings with 'Quartz' or a crystal frequency.
  • Display technology: LED (red, push-button) versus LCD (always-on).
  • Tuning-fork hum and a smoothly sweeping seconds hand on Accutrons.
  • Model and reference numbers, often printed on the back.

Dating clues

  • Electric balance watches: from 1957.
  • Tuning-fork watches: 1960–c. 1977.
  • Quartz analogue: from December 1969; LED digital: 1972–c. 1978; LCD from 1973.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Seiko calibre 35A (Astron)

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