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Cartier Tank Louis 'Extra Platte' 1960s Jaeger Movement in 18k Yellow Gold — view 1 of 6
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Cartier Tank Louis 'Extra Platte' 1960s Jaeger Movement in 18k Yellow Gold

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
Case 23 mm
Stock no.
W-3290
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3290)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Tank Louis 'Extra Platte' 1960s Jaeger Movement in 18k Yellow Gold (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3290), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 23 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

We are delighted to offer this super rare Cartier Paris Tank Louis, dating to the 1960s. This beautiful watch houses the extra-slim Jaeger-LeCoultre manual wind movement and is known as the Tank Louis Extra-Plate or Extra-Slim. This classic Cartier Tank Louis features all the iconic elements of the brand: a white dial with black Roman numerals and a railroad minute track, elegant blued hands, and the signature blue cabochon-topped crown (in this a particular shaped one, as we understood only for this model of this era). Both the dial and case are in very good condition. The dial is not signed PARIS, as is correct for that mid 1960s period. The watch comes with the original Cartier leather strap (lightly worn) and is fitted with the original Cartier Paris 18k gold folding clasp, which carries the Cartier inventory numbers. The Jaeger-LeCoultre movement has been fully serviced by our watchmaker and is running perfectly. Cartier’s production in the 1960s was highly limited, typically not exceeding 1,000 watches annually. Before that decade, production numbers were even lower, often just a few hundred pieces per year. For example, the iconic Tank model was produced in fewer than 100 examples annually before the late 1920s, making vintage Cartier watches like this especially rare and collectible. This fine dresser has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. Specifications: - Cartier Paris Tank Louis Extra Platte - 18k Yellow gold case 30 x 23 mm - 516xx Serial dates to the 1960s - White dial with painted black Roman numerals - Blued hands - Rare blue cabochon-topped winder - Jaeger-LeCoultre ultra-thin manual wind movement - Comes on the pictured Cartier leather strap - Cartier yellow gold folding clasp with serial numbers - Fully serviced by our watchmaker

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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