Cartier Tank Louis Automatique 'Jumbo', c. 1980s

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

There are certain designs that just resonate throughout the years and remain evergreen despite changing trends and tastes. The Cartier Tank, in all its one hundred-plus years of production, is one such design. Whether in gold (yellow, pink, or white), stainless steel, or vermeil; whether Française, Chinoise, Americaine, or Normale; the Tank by Cartier is one watch that truly deserves to be called "iconic." Cartier introduced the Tank in 1917, with a run of six pieces — given, or so the legend goes, to American General Joseph Pershing and his staff. The design of the Tank was inspired by the Renault FT-17 tanks Cartier glimpsed on the battlefield of the Great War. (Cartier took the look of the Renault tank's treads and applied it to the lugs, which were integrated via brancards into the case itself.) That first run of six pieces increased to thirty-three by 1920, and by the end of the 20th century, that number stood well in the thousands. In sheer volume alone, the Tank — in all its various models — is Cartier's largest line of watches. The Tank Louis was introduced in 1922, following close on the heels of the Asian-influenced Tank Chinoise. With the Tank Louis, Cartier went back to basics, with the classic lugs that resemble the treads that inspired them. Louis Cartier himself wore the watch that bore his name — that association with the man himself marks the Tank Louis as the quintessence of the Cartier Tanks. This particular example, a larger than usual 'jumbo,' dates to circa the 1980s and features a 28mm x 35mm 18K white gold case with a glossy white dial with printed 'Roman' indices, a matching blued-steel 'sword' handset, and a sapphire cabochon crown. The watch also features a Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic winding movement - a bit of a departure from the typically manually-wound tank, but a welcome one! This unusual iteration of the Tank Louis upholds the legend, adding increased wearability and versatility. Beloved by movie stars, heads of state (and First Ladies), and even four-star generals, the Tank Louis Carter is a necessity for those who want to add class, style and distinction to their horological arsenal.