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Cartier Tank Basculante (Ref. 2386), 1990 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Tank Basculante (Ref. 2386), 1990

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1990
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
CTRTB2386
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRTB2386)
Catalogue title (original)
1990 Cartier Tank Basculante (Ref. 2386) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRTB2386), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

It's common knowledge that the Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and other than some more eclectic references produced has remained relatively the same over its long run of production. The Cartier Tank was originally designed in 1917 and became commercially available in 1919, and its design was inspired by the Renault FT-17 tank used by the French Military in the First World War. Although the Cartier Tank appears to have remained the same for the course of its design life, there are some interesting anomalies that happened during its production run that resulted in very collectible and very rare timepieces. The first Tank Basculante Mécanique was released from Cartier in 1932. At the time, it was a miraculously thin mechanical watch for Cartier (or any brand) to produce. The original Basculante housed a 2.1mm 610 calibre, which was made by Piguet. Similar in style to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, which was released a year prior, the Basculante is said to provide better protection to the face of the watch when reversed and in contrast, uses a swinging inner frame as opposed to JLC's sliding track style reversing mechanism. The Basculante also hosts the crown at the 12 o'clock position, and still reveals Cartier's signature sapphire cabochon no matter which direction the dial faces. The namesake comes from the French word, bascule, which appropriately translates to 'seesaw'. The Cartier Basculante ref. 2396, is an updated version of the original and is powered by a reliable quartz movement and would make for the perfect dress piece for a man, or a stylish accessory for a lady! Stock # CTRTB2386 Brand Cartier Style Tank Basculante Model 2386 Serial 48XXXXX Size Men's/ Unisex Material Stainless Steel Dial White Millimeters 22x32 Bracelet 2pc Cartier Crocodile Leather Strap W/ Original Cartier Buckle CASE & BRACELET The stainless steel case is in good condition and shows appropriate use for its age. The reversed side of the case is in excellent condition. All caseback engravings are still very crisp and legible. Comes on a crocodile leather Cartier strap with the original buckle. DIAL & HANDS The ivory dial with black lacquered numerals is in excellent condition and reveals almost virtually no signs of age. The hidden Cartier logo is located in the 10 o'clock marker. The blue steeled hands show no signs of degradation or age. ACCESSORIES None. Watch is keeping time and functioning perfectly, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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