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Cartier Santos Octagon Automatic dating, 1990 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Santos Octagon Automatic dating, 1990

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1990
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
Two-tone steel/gold
Dimensions
Diameter 30 mm (without crown)
Stock no.
gm1208
Credit line
Dealer listing, Vintage Portfolio (gm1208)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Santos Octagon 30mm Automatic dating 1990 (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Vintage Portfolio (dealer), Vienna (stock number gm1208), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Two-tone steel/gold. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 30 mm (without crown). The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer specification — Vintage Portfolio

Movement: automatic with centre seconds; Dial: white; Case: two-tone steel/gold; Crown: Genuine (signed); Glass: Mineral (factory original); Date display: Date; Diameter: 30 mm (without crown); Strap: metal; Dial condition, as described by the dealer: The still factory original (non-refurbished) dial has slight patina.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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