
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Santos Dumont ultra thin Guilloché dial with box and warrantee paper ref 8210, mid 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- mid 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 36 mm
- Stock no.
- W-3054
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3054)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Cartier Santos Dumont ultra thin Guilloché dial with box and warrantee paper ref 8210 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3054), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated mid 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
A the Cartier Santos Dumont ! By now, everyone is familiar with the story of Louis Cartier crafting a wristwatch for his friend, aviation pioneer Santos-Dumont. This legendary piece has become a timeless classic — an icon in the world of horology. Over the years, we've come to appreciate the ultra-thin (or, as the French say, extra plate ) versions — because they’re not just ultra-thin, they’re also... extra cool! ( Ba-dum-tss! ) Let us explain: These hand-wound models, in particular, are much slimmer compared to other references like the automatic-powered 2960. The result? They really "hug" your wrist, offering a sleek and elegant fit. We truly believe these are the Santos models to own! The ultra-thin hand-wound movement (based on the Frédérique Piguet Cal. 21) has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. We’d love to share our passion for Cartier with you. Please feel free to arrange a visit or a call — we look forward to welcoming you! Specifications: - Cartier Santos Dumont reference 8210 “Ultra thin”or “Extra platte “ - Serial 8210540xxx dating to the mid 1990s - Yellow 18 k gold case measures 27 x 36 mm - Rare Silver guilloché dial with black Roman numerals - Blued hands and sapphire cabochon crown - F.Piguet /Cartier calibre 21 manual wind movement - Leather strap with 18 k gold folding buckle - Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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