
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Santos Dumont Ultra-thin Guilloché Dial ref. 82105 in 18k Yellow Gold Box and Paper Set, mid 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- mid 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- 18k yellow gold
- Dimensions
- Case 36 mm
- Stock no.
- w-3446
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (w-3446)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Cartier Santos Dumont Ultra-thin Guilloché Dial ref. 82105 in 18k Yellow Gold Box and Paper Set (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number w-3446), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated mid 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
By now, most are familiar with the iconic story of Louis Cartier designing a wristwatch for his friend, aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. That historic creation would go on to become one of the most enduring classics in watchmaking — a true icon in the world of horology. Over time, the ultra-thin variants — or extra plate , as the French elegantly put it — have earned a special place in collectors' hearts. And with good reason: they’re not just ultra-thin, they’re also undeniably cool. Let us elaborate: These hand-wound versions are noticeably slimmer than automatic references like the 2960. The result is a refined profile that hugs the wrist beautifully, offering both comfort and understated elegance. In our view, these are among the most desirable Santos models to own. This particular example features an 18k yellow gold case in excellent condition, with a crisp bezel that retains its sharp lines. The rare silver guilloché dial, hand-finished with Cartier’s signature black Roman numerals, includes a discreet “Cartier” inscription hidden at 7 o'clock — a hallmark of authenticity. It comes paired with the leather strap shown, and is fitted with an original 18k yellow gold Cartier pin buckle. Powering the watch is the ultra-thin, hand-wound movement based on the celebrated Frédérique Piguet Cal. 21, which has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. This cool Santos' comes with its original Cartier box and the certificate states a sale in 1995, Kuwait. We’d love to share our passion for Cartier with you. Please feel free to arrange a visit or a call — we look forward to welcoming you! Specifications: Cartier Santos Dumont reference 8210 “Ultra thin”or “Extra platte “ Serial 8210540xxx dating to the mid 1990s Yellow 18 k gold case measures 27 x 36 mm Rare Silver guilloché dial with black Roman numerals Blued hands and sapphire cabochon crown F.Piguet /Cartier calibre 21 manual wind movement Leather strap with 18 k gold Cartier pin buckle Red Cartier box Certificate stating sale in 1995 Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Related records
Clocks · 1863
Clock by Albert-Ernest Carrier-Belleuse, France, 1863
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Clocks · c. 1980s
Cartier "art Deco", c. 1980s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Clocks · c. 2000s
Cartier Desk Clock with Alarm, c. 2000s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Clocks · c. 2000s
Cartier Lacquer Arched Desk Clock with Alarm, ref. W0100037, c. 2000s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1990
Cartier Pasha, ref. 2412, c. 1990
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1990
Cartier Santos Ronde Vendome, c. 1990
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1990s
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier, ref. 6711, c. 1990s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1991
Cartier Tonneau Paris 1991, c. 1991
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
