Cartier Santos Carrée, 1985

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

The story of the Cartier Santos dates back to the early 1900s and a fascinating man named Alberto Santos-Dumont. Born in 1873 into a family of engineers and farmers, Alberto’s father was involved in railroad construction, instilling in Alberto a passion for travel and exploration. This naturally led to a fascination with aviation, Alberto’s greatest passion. After moving to France, Santos-Dumont built a number of balloons, airships, and later, primitive aircraft. He quickly made significant breakthroughs, including manning the very first publicly viewed manned flight in Europe. Santos-Dumont’s high-profile, daring escapades put him in company with some of the most prominent personalities of France, including Louis Cartier. Cartier and Santos-Dumont’s friendship blossomed from mutual respect for innovation, creativity, and legacy. In 1904, Louis Cartier gave Santos-Dumont a special watch designed to be worn on the wrist during flight — a novel concept at the time. The primitive, sturdy square timepiece was essentially the first true sports watch, which was subsequently produced in series. The commercial debut in 1911 Cartier Santos-Dumont was the birth of one of Cartier’s most iconic watch designs in history. Since 1911, Cartier has made dozens of Santos models — manually-wound pieces, automatics, quartz watches, complicated references, and more. This particular Santos is known as the Carrée. Introduced in 1978, this was the maison's way of re-introducing the Santos to a new generation during a time of radical change. It was also Cartier's answer to the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Dating to 1985, this piece features a 30mm stainless steel case with a flat sapphire crystal, a polished bezel with exposed screws, and an octagonal stainless steel crown with a sapphire cabochon. You'll notice that this case is sharper and edgier compared to its Galbee sibling giving it more of a utilitarian aesthetic. Its white dial is printed with ‘Roman’ indices and features a chemin de fer minute track, a date window at 3 o’clock, a blued steel ‘sword’ handset. Paired to the watch is a matching stainless steel bracelet with exposed screws and a “CC”-signed locking clasp. It also includes its original factory presentation box and factory certificate. If you're Cartier-curious but the Tank Louis doesn't speak to you, the slightly more versatile Santos might just be a perfect match. Give this one a try!