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Cartier Pasha Automatic, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
40950217
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40950217)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Pasha Automatic (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40950217), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

No, it’s not a Tank. And yes, it deserves your undivided attention! While Parisian jeweler to the stars Cartier may be best known in horological circles for its famed Tank watch, the French firm produced –– and continues to produce –– numerous other watch models that deserve equal billing for their unique and sumptuous designs. The Pasha is one such design. Launched in 1985, it was supposedly inspired by the lines of a one-off commission from 1932 for the Pasha of Marrakesh that featured a screw-down, waterproof housing over the crown. None other than famed watch designer Gérald Genta was the one who revived the design in the 1980s, launching yet another winning collection for the famed Parisian jeweler and watchmaker. This particular example, a Reference W31023M7-2324, dates to the 1990s. It’s housed in a 35mm stainless steel case with a sapphire crystal and features a silver guilloche , grid-pattern dial with printed ‘Arabic’ indices, applied hour markers, a date at 4:30 and a matching blued-steel ‘sword’ handset. It also features the signature sapphire cabochon cap-and-chain crown protector and is fitted to a signed multi-link bracelet equipped with a hidden dual-deployant clasp. With a rare dial configuration and creamy even patina showing on the luminous plots and handset, this is a proper neo-vintage Cartier that is sure to turn some heads!

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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