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Cartier Paris Ceinture Automatique 18K YG (Ref. 17001) "Jumbo", 1970s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Paris Ceinture Automatique 18K YG (Ref. 17001) "Jumbo", 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
CTRCNTR17001
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRCNTR17001)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Cartier Paris Ceinture Automatique 18K YG (Ref. 17001) "Jumbo" (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRCNTR17001), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The Cartier name is synonymous with luxury and has been since the brand's inception in 1847. Offering bespoke and unique jewelry to the world’s elite allowed Cartier to steadily grow through the 19th century and eventually introduced new offerings and wristwatches to their clientele. Most notably known for the Tank Louis, the Cartier brand and jewelry juggernaut also produced some eclectic references that are just as interesting and in many cases much more rare than the classic Tank. The Cartier Ceinture is one such eclectic watch and often forgotten amongst the Cartier community as it was only produced for a short period of time in the 1970s and never recreated. With the name directly translating to "belt" in French, the Ceinture's square case with missing corners was designed to reflect the look of a belt buckle. Stock # CTRCNTR17001 Brand Cartier Style Ceinture Automatique Model 17001 Serial 780XXXXXX Size Unisex Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial White "Paris" Millimeters 31X31 Bracelet Cartier Paris Black Alligator Deployant Strap W/ 18K YG Cartier Clasp CASE & BRACELET The excellent 18K yellow gold "jumbo" case is beautifully preserved and appears to have been gently polished in the past as the case angles are defined and factory dimensions remain intact. The case also features a subtle rosy patina within the case edges which is evidence of the minimal polishing the watch has seen in the past. The back of the case features the classic Automatique "bubble", the original factory engravings remain present on the back as well, though they are faint through wear over time. The watch will come supplied on a Cartier black lizard skin leather strap with an 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original "Paris" signed white Roman numeral dial is in exceptional original condition and doesn't show spider cracking in the enamel. The dial does feature some subtle elements of age, however, but they are nominal in nature and expected for an original dial of this age. The blue hands are original to the watch as well, the minute hands feature a small spot of corrosion but the hands are otherwise in excellent shape. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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