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Cartier New York Tank Louis U.S. Import, ref. 78086, circa 1980 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier New York Tank Louis U.S. Import, ref. 78086, circa 1980

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
c. 1980
Country of origin
United States
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18K Yellow-Gold
Dimensions
Diameter 23 mm
Stock no.
CUR457
Credit line
Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR457)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier New York Tank Louis 78086 U.S. Import (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR457), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in United States, dated c. 1980. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18K Yellow-Gold. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 23 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge

Gentleman’s size Cartier New York Tank Louis mechanical reference 78086 in 18k yellow gold. This example was a US import from Switzerland sold through Cartier’s New York store circa 1980. It features its original Swiss-signed dial in excellent condition with corresponding with the Swiss signed case back and US stock number, and is complimented by an 18k solid gold Cartier deployant clasp. The watch has recently been serviced by an independent watchmaker.

Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge

Reference: 78086; Metal: 18K Yellow-Gold; Movement: Manual Wind; Case diameter: 23mm x 29mm; Bracelet/strap: Cartier Leather Strap W/ Cartier Yellow Gold Deployant Clasp

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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