Skip to content

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Must de Vendome

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
c. 1990s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 24 mm
Stock no.
40950285
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40950285)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Must de Vendome (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40950285), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated c. 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 24 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

No, it’s not a Tank. And yes, it deserves your attention! While Parisian jeweler to the stars, Cartier, may be best known in horological circles for its famed Tank watch, the French firm produced — and continues to produce — numerous other watch models that deserve equal billing for their unique and sumptuous designs. The Louis Cartier collection, announced by Cartier Paris in 1973, constituted a redesign of the maison’s watch offerings upon its launch. Fresh takes on classics such as the Tank and Santos Dumont were accompanied by new designs, including that of pieces like the Ellipse, the Tonneau, the Ceinture, and more. This particular piece, a Vendome model, dates to the circa 1990s and features a 24mm 18k yellow gold case with a sapphire cabochon winding crown, a glossy white Swiss-signed dial with printed Roman indices and a matching blued-steel 'sword' handset, and a quartz movement within. This particular piece also features a diamond set bezel for a bit of extra flair and diamond set t lugs conjoining the lizard strap to the case. Appropriate for any wrist, this particular example is in lovely condition with an exceptionally clean dial. Its slender stance on the wrist is as effortlessly comfortable as it is elegant. Perfection. Everyone knows the Tank. This is your chance to own its equally compelling sibling!

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

Related records