
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil (Ref. 590005) Quartz W/ Breguet Dial, 1980s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- CTRMSDE590005
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRMSDE590005)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1980s Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil (Ref. 590005) Quartz W/ Breguet Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRMSDE590005), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
The Cartier Tank has become one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and has remained relatively the same over its long run of production. It was originally designed in 1917—inspired by the Renault FT-17 tank used by the French Military in the First World War—and became commercially available in 1919. The Tank is the perfect example of excellent design transcending generations. It moved through the early 20th century only to become more relevant during the mid-century design era, and is once again seeing a massive resurgence amongst the watch-collecting community today. The Must de Cartier line was released as a diffusion, or a more attainable and affordable version of the classic Tank. Often featured in Vermeil or "silver gilt” cases, which are comprised of gold-plated sterling silver, with unique and intricately designed dials. In this instance, the uncommon dial featured on this Must de Cartier Tank features a center step for added dimension and beautiful Breguet numerals. Stock # CTRMDC590005 Brand Cartier Must de Cartier Style Tank Quartz Model 59005 Serial 19XXX Size Men's/Unisex Material Vermeil Dial Silver W/ Breguet Numerals Millimeters 23 x 30 Bracelet Cartier Black Leather Strap W/ Cartier Gold Plaque Deployant Buckle CASE & BRACELET The classic tank-style vermeil case is believed to remain unpolished with the overall factory dimensions remaining very impressive throughout the case and case back with extremely deep and crisp hallmarks and factory markings present. The case shows minor signs of gentle use. The watch retains its original blue sapphire cabochon crown. The watch comes supplied on a lightly worn Cartier strap with a gold plaque Cartier deployant buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original and uncommon silver dial featuring beautiful Breguet numerals and a center step is in flawless condition. The original blued hands are also in perfect condition. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is functioning and keeping time. The watch recently received a new battery.
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Quartz, digital and electronic watches
Electronic watches arrived in three steps. The Hamilton Electric 500 (1957) was the first battery-powered wristwatch, still with a balance; Bulova's Accutron (1960) used a tuning fork. On 25 December 1969 Seiko released the Astron 35SQ, the first quartz wristwatch, closely followed by the Swiss Beta 21 group. In 1972 Hamilton's Pulsar introduced the LED digital watch, and LCD displays soon made digital watches cheap.
The 'Quartz Crisis' that followed devastated the Swiss mechanical industry, which lost two-thirds of its workforce between 1970 and 1984 before recovering with the Swatch (1983) and the luxury mechanical revival. Solar, radio-controlled, kinetic and connected smartwatches continue the electronic line.
What to look for
- Battery hatch in the case back and calibre markings with 'Quartz' or a crystal frequency.
- Display technology: LED (red, push-button) versus LCD (always-on).
- Tuning-fork hum and a smoothly sweeping seconds hand on Accutrons.
- Model and reference numbers, often printed on the back.
Dating clues
- Electric balance watches: from 1957.
- Tuning-fork watches: 1960–c. 1977.
- Quartz analogue: from December 1969; LED digital: 1972–c. 1978; LCD from 1973.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Seiko calibre 35A (Astron)
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