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Cartier Calatrava (Ref. 634) 14K YG, 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Calatrava (Ref. 634) 14K YG, 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
CRTCAL634
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CRTCAL634)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Cartier Calatrava (Ref. 634) 14K YG (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CRTCAL634), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Close your eyes and think of a Cartier watch. Got it? It's a Tank, right? There's nothing wrong with that association – the brand designed one of the most recognizable and iconic dress watches of all time. But it turns out they designed a whole lot of other really fantastic pieces as well, including this incredibly elegant Calatrava in 14k yellow gold. It's a more traditional shape than the Tank but it's a Cartier through and through and can go anywhere and do anything just as easily. Stock # CRTCAL634 Brand Cartier Style Calatrava Model 634 Serial 62XXXX Size Men's Material 14K Yellow Gold Dial Brushed Silver Millimeters 33 Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The 14K yellow gold Calatrava-style case is in excellent condition and features slim, symmetrical lugs. The case back features an engraving "2-14-64, Love Tiger" adding to the story of this piece and also retains its original factory reference number and serial. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The silver dial has a sunburst effect and is incredibly simple and yet stunning. The hour markers and hands are a matching 14k yellow gold, with the only marking being the subtle yet compelling Cartier text below the 12 o'clock marker. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is functioning and keeping time, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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