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Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute 24 Hour Dial (Ref. A12019), 1990s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute 24 Hour Dial (Ref. A12019), 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Breitling (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 41 mm
Stock no.
Product 8546258550967
Credit line
Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8546258550967)
Catalogue title (original)
1990s Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute 24 Hour Dial (Ref. A12019) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8546258550967), this is a wristwatch by Breitling, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 41 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance The Cosmonaute sits in a very specific corner of the Navitimer lineage. Developed originally for astronaut Scott Carpenter in 1962, the defining feature is the 24 hour dial, designed to make sense of time in space where day and night lose meaning. That layout carried forward into later references like the A12019, which represents an early modern execution of the concept while still retaining much of the vintage character that makes the Cosmonaute appealing. The A12019 uses a modified 24 hour movement paired with the classic Navitimer slide rule bezel. What stands out here is how traditional the watch still feels despite being a later piece. The black dial with contrasting white sub-registers, aged lume plots, and printed aviation scales keep it visually rooted in earlier generations. It avoids the heavier, more polished direction Breitling would take later, and instead stays closer to the tool watch identity that defines the Navitimer line. Writer’s Thoughts The 24-hour layout initially feels unconventional, but quickly becomes intuitive, and it gives the watch a distinct identity compared to standard Navitimers. The 41mm case is right where you want it, large enough for the dial to breathe without feeling oversized. Paired with the olive nylon strap, it leans slightly more casual and utilitarian, which suits the Cosmonaute concept well. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Breitling Model: Navitimer Cosmonaute (Ref. A12019) Year: Circa 1990s Case Material: Stainless steel Case Size: 41mm Bezel: Bidirectional slide rule bezel Dial: Black with 24-hour layout and white sub-registers Movement: Manual modified 24-hour chronograph movement Strap/Bracelet: Olive nylon strap Buckle/Clasp: Pin buckle Contents: Watch only Condition Case: Clean with light surface wear consistent with use. Edges remain well defined with no major dings. Dial: Original dial with even patina developing across the luminous markers, giving a warm tone against the black base. Printing remains sharp and intact. Hands: Matching handset with light aging to the lume, consistent with the dial. Crystal: Clear with no surface marks. Strap: Fitted on a newer olive nylon strap in excellent condition.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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