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Breguet Type XX 'Sterile' Dial Flyback Chronograph, mid 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Breguet (maker)
Date
mid 1950s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 38 mm
Stock no.
40991716
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40991716)
Catalogue title (original)
Breguet Type XX 'Sterile' Dial Flyback Chronograph (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40991716), this is a wristwatch by Breguet, made in France, dated mid 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 38 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Amongst collectors of military watches, the Type 20 is certainly one of the most sought after. A pilot’s chronograph, the Type 20 was designed according to a standard that the French Aéronautique Militaire issued in the 1950s. Aesthetically, the watch — with its stark black dial, bold Arabic numerals, and stainless steel case — resembled other military chronographs of the era. But the Type 20 had to have a flyback function — or, in French, retour en vol — that enabled the pilot to stop, reset and start the chronograph again by depressing the bottom pusher just once. Several manufactures produced watches to the Type 20 specification including Vixa, Auricoste, Airain, Dodane, and by the brand who's version is commonly agreed upon to be the most desirable - Breguet. This particular Breguet Type XX dates to the mid 1950s and has six different FG (Fin de Garantie) engravings etched onto the caseback with each contract servicing — indicating service until approximately 1979. It features a 38mm stainless steel case with beveled, holey lugs with an acrylic crystal, a bi-directional rotating coin-edge indicator bezel, an oversized 'onion' crown, and barrel pushers. Inside, it has a fantastic matte black dial with 'Arabic' indices, printed white subsidiary registers, a white painted 'sword' handset, and a Valjoux Cal. 222 manual winding flyback chronograph movement. Watches such as these with genuine military provenance don’t surface terribly often... ... and when you strap it on your wrist you’ll quickly see why collectors are always on the hunt for exceptional examples such as this one. We are massive fans and are delighted to offer this one here.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

  • Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
  • Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
  • Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
  • Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

  • Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
  • Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
  • Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Chronograph

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