Breguet Type XX Flyback Chronograph, 'Sterile' Dial Military Issued

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Parisian manufacturer Breguet, named after its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, was founded in 1775 and is one of the most stored and historically significant manufacturers in the world of horology. With a number of firsts, including *ahem* what many consider to be the first known wristwatch, Breguet is primarily known today for its stunning silver 'guilloche' dials, innovations in complications, and outstanding build quality. Prior to it's transfer of ownership and production location change to Switzerland in the late 1970s into the 1980s, it is estimated that only a few hundred pieces were every produced. So, the piece that we have here you might say, is something very, very special indeed and perhaps not what immediately comes to mind when you hear "Breguet." Dating to circa the early 1950s, this chronograph was designed and produced to conform to the standards of the French Aéronautique Militaire. That is to say, that this was designed for one specific purpose: the French Airforce. To meet specification, these pieces featured what at the time would have been considered a large 38mm case to accommodate a highly-legible dial and legendary movement inside. These were powered by a robust and proven Valjoux Cal. 222 manually-wound movement, with a two-register chronograph display and 'flyback' function for precise, rapid timing. The dials were devoid of any branding or text other than the high-contrast luminous paint, which was complimented with a white-painted 'syringe' handset. The 'onion' crown is oversized, designed to be used with gloves on. There is also a rotating 'coin-edge' steel bezel with an indicator triangle for additional marking of time, or elapsed timekeeping. Eventually, this watch would later serve as a base for a civilian version, also called the Type XX, which featured a different case and dial design and are still highly collectible, but it are these very watches that were military-issued. Dating to circa 1957 per the issue engravings on the caseback (more on those later), the example that we have here is nothing short of exceptional and has to be one of the finest examples to come to market. The case has likely been professionally restored to factory specification, with gorgeous faceted lugs and correct 'brushed' and polished finishing throughout. The bezel and caseback have thankfully been spared any kind of restoration, retaining that 'coin-edge' finishing and all of the important engravings on the caseback. Inside, that matte black dial is beautifully preserved, with only minor surface wear within the subsidiary registers and evenly patinated luminous indices. The correct handset has likely been replaced under one of its contract services with an updated Tritium set, which is common and acceptable practice for military-issued pieces. Inside, of course, that Valjoux 222 'flyback' chronograph movement is operated by the incredibly whimsical and stylized 'onion' crown at the 3 o'clock position. Last but not least, flip this piece over and you'll find the factory engravings from Breguet with the case number and no fewer than six 'Fin De Garantie' service engravings confirming this watches provenance. To many collectors of vintage, regardless of whether the focus is of military watches or not, this Type XX has everything going for it. Military issued, properly vintage, fantastic condition, and its a Breguet. What more does one need?