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Baume Et Mercier White Gold Ellipse (Ref. 38297), 1970s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Baume Et Mercier White Gold Ellipse (Ref. 38297), 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Baume & Mercier (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
white gold
Dimensions
Case 24 mm
Stock no.
Product 8566018343095
Credit line
Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8566018343095)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Baume Et Mercier White Gold Ellipse (Ref. 38297) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8566018343095), this is a wristwatch by Baume & Mercier, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: white gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 24 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance By the late 1970s and 1980s, Baume & Mercier leaned heavily into elegant dress-focused designs, often experimenting with softer case forms and jewelry-inspired proportions. The reference 38297 reflects that direction well, combining a minimalist dial with an elongated oval case and integrated loop-style lugs. The design is intentionally understated. Rather than relying on numerals or complications, the watch focuses entirely on shape, negative space, and proportion. The black dial creates strong contrast against the white gold case, while the sharply faceted hands add just enough visual tension to keep the watch from feeling overly delicate. The oval case also wears differently from its dimensions. While technically compact at 24mm, the elongated silhouette and open lug design give it a larger wrist presence than a traditional round dress watch of similar size. Writer’s Thoughts This feels much more like a design object than a traditional dress watch. The black dial is what makes it really special. Without any markers interrupting the surface, it almost disappears until the light catches the hands. It has a very clean and graphic look in person. The oval shape and loop lugs could have easily become excessive, but everything stays balanced and thin. It is the kind of watch that works best with very simple styling and lets the shape do all the talking. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Baume & Mercier Model: Oval (Ref. 38297) Year: circa 1990s Case Material: White gold Case Size: 24mm Bezel: White gold oval bezel Dial: Black minimalist dial Movement: Manual Strap/Bracelet: Generic leather strap Buckle/Clasp: Generic buckle Contents: Watch only Condition Case: Strong overall condition with light wear consistent with careful use. Dial: Clean with no visible imperfections. Hands: Excellent condition with no visible wear. Crystal: Clean with minor signs of wear visible under close inspection. Strap/Bracelet: Strap shows light wear consistent with use.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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