Baume Et Mercier Gold Ellipse Rope Case and 'Lapis' Dial (Ref. 38320), 1970s

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance Baume & Mercier has long occupied an interesting position in Swiss watchmaking, often experimenting with design while maintaining traditional mechanical standards. During the 1970s, the brand produced a number of expressive dress watches that leaned into form and material as much as function. Reference 38320 is a clear example of that period, combining an oval yellow gold case with integrated, sculptural lugs that give the watch a distinctly jewelry-forward presence. The standout feature is the deep blue lacquer dial, often compared visually to lapis due to its rich, saturated tone. Rather than relying on applied numerals or complications, the design is intentionally minimal, allowing the color and case shape to do the work. This approach aligns closely with broader design trends of the era, when elegance was increasingly defined by restraint rather than ornamentation. For collectors interested in character-driven vintage watches, the 38320 offers a compelling blend of precious metal, uncommon case architecture, and a dial that immediately sets it apart from more traditional round dress watches. Writer’s Thoughts This reference wears more like a piece of wearable design than a conventional watch, and that is exactly its appeal. The proportions are elegant, the gold case feels substantial without being excessive, and the blue lacquer dial gives it a strong visual identity on the wrist. It pairs especially well with simple black leather and works equally as a standalone statement or as part of a broader vintage-focused collection. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Baume & Mercier Model: Dress Watch Reference: 38320 Year: circa 1970s Case Material: 18k yellow gold Case Size: 22mm x 27mm Bezel: Rope-style 18k yellow gold Dial: Blue Lapis lacquer Crystal: Mineral Movement: Manual wind Strap: Aftermarket black leather strap Buckle/Clasp: Aftermarket buckle Contents: Watch only Condition Case: Solid yellow gold case remains unpolished and shows light surface wear consistent with age and careful use. Case retains strong definition and original proportions. Crystal: Crystal is clean with no visible chips or cracks. Dial: Blue lacquer dial is clean and free of cracks. Hands: Original hands are in good condition with light aging and no corrosion. Strap: Aftermarket leather strap fitted and shows minimal wear. Buckle/Clasp: Aftermarket buckle shows light handling marks and functions properly.