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Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin "Clous De Paris", 18k White Gold

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (maker)
Date
c. 1980s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k white gold
Stock no.
Product 9990264619284
Credit line
Dealer listing, Collectors Corner NY (product 9990264619284)
Catalogue title (original)
Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin "Clous De Paris" - 18k White Gold - *Unpolished* (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Collectors Corner NY (dealer), New York (stock number Product 9990264619284), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in France, dated c. 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k white gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Collectors Corner NY

Audemars Piguet is one of the top selling watch brands, mainly due to the Royal Oak. However, there are plenty of other fantastic offerings in their vintage catalog through the decades, especially with regards to their dress watches. AP are known for some of their highly technical and complicated dress pieces as well but for some those options might be too cumbersome to operate and maintain. For those who appreciate minimalist time only designs, there are plenty of interesting finds to discover among Audemars Piguet watches today. This particular example, circa 1980s is housed in 18k white gold and offers a fantastic hobnail "Clous De Paris" design throughout its dial and case. It is just intricate enough to make this minimal "cocktail" watch exciting to own. This example has remained in stunning vintage condition, remaining unpolished with untouched markings and even retains a caseback sticker. For any collector who appreciates a unique find in excellent condition, we're thrilled to offer you your next dress watch.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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