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Alpina 'Hooded' Lug Rectangular Dress Watch, Gloss Black Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Alpina 'Hooded' Lug Rectangular Dress Watch, Gloss Black Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Alpina (maker)
Date
c. late 1930s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 22 mm
Stock no.
OC3219
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3219)
Catalogue title (original)
Alpina 'Hooded' Lug Rectangular Dress Watch - Gloss Black Dial LNOS W/ Tag (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3219), this is a wristwatch by Alpina, dated c. late 1930s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 22 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Alpina is perhaps best known today for rugged sports watches like the Alpiner collection, but the brand's story reaches much further back than its modern adventure-focused identity. Founded in 1883 by Gottlieb Hauser, Alpina began life not as a watch manufacturer, but as a cooperative of Swiss watchmakers dedicated to producing reliable, high-quality timepieces. By the early twentieth century, the company had established itself as a leader in precision tool watches, supplying everything from elegant dress watches to robust military and pilot's watches. Throughout the decades that followed, Alpina earned a reputation for practical innovation and early experimentation with anti-magnetism, water resistance, shock protection. Many of these characteristics would eventually become the blueprint for the 'sports' watch as we known them today. While the company weathered the upheavals of the Quartz Crisis and changed hands several times, its commitment to durable, purpose-built watches has remained at the heart of the brand ever since. The piece that we have here is is a rectangular dress watch dating to circa the late 1930s - early 1940s and simply put is offered in virtually new-old-stock condition. The case measures in at a sizable 22mm x 29mm, with fantastic 'hooded' lugs, and a flat crown. Inside, the dial is a rare black 'gilt' unit, with fantastic 'Arabic' indices, a subsidiary seconds register on the bottom half, and one of the most beautiful script logos ever to grace a dial. It even comes with a hangtag! As it pertains to vintage collecting, this checks a heck of a lot of boxes; A niche brand with historically important innovations, fantastic sizing, and virtually flawless condition. What more can you ask for?

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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