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18K Gold Universal Geneve Polerouter Date circa 1960s — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

18K Gold Universal Geneve Polerouter Date circa 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
c. 1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k gold, gold
Lot
Item 62549779
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 21, VINTAGE AND MODERN TIMEPIECES AUCTION, Champagne Auctions (2018), via LiveAuctioneers
Catalogue title (original)
18K Gold Universal Geneve Polerouter Date Circa 1960s (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by LiveAuctioneers auction archive (lot Item 62549779), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k gold, gold. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Champagne Auctions

Universal Genève has gained traction with its chronograph wristwatches but the Polerouter model has still somewhat stayed in the shadows of the mainstream. Its simple design aesthetics where executed perfectly by none other than Gerald Genta back in 1954. Back then, Gerald Genta was a young, up-and-coming jewelry / watch designer , today he has become a revered designer with iconic creations such as the Nautilus for Patek Philippe, the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet and the Ingenieur for IWC under his belt! The appeal of the 18K Gold case and gilt dial lies in the various reliefs and layers the dial offers. From the outer circle along the perimeter solid gilt center while eliminating the signature crosshair motif found on almost all Polerouters. Originally introduced with a bumper movement, this watch comes Universal Genève trademarked Cal 215-1 “microrotor†automatic movement allowing the watch to retain rather thin proportions. Overall condition is excellent with the 18K gold case & it’s lyre shaped lungs showing nice clean sharp lines. The watch has also retained it’s original signed crown and crystal. Freshly cleaned and serviced. Manufacturer: Universal Geneve Year: 1960's Reference No: 104.503 1TB Model Name: Polerouter Date Material: 18K Gold Calibre: UG 215-1 Bracelet/Strap : Black leather with Black stitch Case Size: Accessories: We do our best to ensure that all our watches are exactly as described. In the event that the watch operates outside of the listed specifications, the Auction house will only accept full returns. Due to the nature of vintage timepieces we cannot guarantee water resistance. Pre-Owned timepieces may require servicing to perform to specification unless it has been specified. We provide a 24hr/Accuracy reading for reference purposes only.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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