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Hublot — Hublot MDM Quratz, ref. 140.10.4, c. 1990s
Hublot MDM Quratz, ref. 140.10.4, c. 1990s — Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva · © Antiquorum Genève SA — permission required · source (opens another website in a new tab)

Manufacturer

Hublot

Also recorded as: Hublot SA · MDM Genève

Founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, Hublot paired gold cases with natural rubber straps and later built the Big Bang.

Carlo Crocco founded Hublot in Geneva in 1980. Its first watch, with a porthole-shaped case ('hublot' is French for porthole), was among the first luxury watches on a natural rubber strap — then a provocative combination with a gold case.

Under Jean-Claude Biver, who joined in 2004, Hublot launched the Big Bang in 2005 and built its strategy around the 'art of fusion' of unusual materials. LVMH acquired the company in 2008.

How to recognise the work: early watches were made by Crocco's company MDM Genève and carry that name with Hublot — the catalogue includes a 1990s MDM quartz model, ref. 140.10.4. The porthole-shaped case with a screwed bezel on a black natural rubber strap is the signature. The Big Bang of 2005 introduced layered cases mixing ceramic, carbon, titanium and gold, and was later fitted with Hublot's own Unico chronograph movement.

Carlo Crocco came from the family behind Italy's Binda group. His first watch was shown at the Basel fair in 1980 and sold more than US$2 million in its first year. Jean-Claude Biver, previously head of Omega, became chief executive in May 2004; sales rose from 24 million Swiss francs that year to nearly 100 million by the end of 2006, and the Big Bang won the design prize at the Geneva watchmaking Grand Prix in 2005.

LVMH bought the company in April 2008. In 2009 Hublot opened its first manufacture at Nyon, near Geneva, and introduced an anti-counterfeiting system that authenticates each watch with a smart card.

Country
Switzerland
City / centre
Geneva; Nyon
Founded
1980
Status
Active (LVMH)
Key people
Carlo Crocco (founder); Jean-Claude Biver

Innovations & specialities

  • Luxury watch on a natural rubber strap (1980)
  • Big Bang (2005)

Timeline

  1. 1980Carlo Crocco launches the first Hublot at the Basel fair
  2. 2004Jean-Claude Biver becomes chief executive
  3. 2005Big Bang chronograph; design prize in Geneva
  4. 2007First Hublot boutique, Paris
  5. 2008Acquired by LVMH
  6. 2009Manufacture opens in Nyon; smart-card authentication

Works by Hublot in the catalogue

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Hublot Classic MDM Geneve Yellow Gold Diamond Pavé, 1980s

Wristwatches · 1980s

Hublot Classic MDM Geneve Yellow Gold Diamond Pavé, 1980s

Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London

Hublot Classic MDM Geneve Yellow Gold, 1984

Wristwatches · 1984

Hublot Classic MDM Geneve Yellow Gold, 1984

Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London

Hublot MDM Quratz, ref. 140.10.4, c. 1990s

Wristwatches · c. 1990s

Hublot MDM Quratz, ref. 140.10.4, c. 1990s

Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva

Hublot MDM Chronograph Super B Automatic Panda Dial, 1998

Wristwatches · 1998

Hublot MDM Chronograph Super B Automatic Panda Dial, 1998

Vintage Portfolio (dealer), Vienna

Hublot Classic Fusion Ceramic Black, 2014

Wristwatches · 2014

Hublot Classic Fusion Ceramic Black, 2014

Vintage Portfolio (dealer), Vienna

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu, ref. 415.NX.7179.VR.MXM18, c. 2018

Wristwatches · c. 2018

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu, ref. 415.NX.7179.VR.MXM18, c. 2018

Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 400.NX.1100.RX, Limited of 2018 Pieces, originally sold in 2018

Wristwatches · originally sold in 2018 (per the lot record)

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 400.NX.1100.RX, Limited of 2018 Pieces, originally sold in 2018

Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 441.NX.1170.RX.1104, Big Bang Unico Diamond, circa 2018

Wristwatches · c. 2018

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 441.NX.1170.RX.1104, Big Bang Unico Diamond, circa 2018

Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 440.NX.1100.RX, Big Bang E, originally sold in 2020

Wristwatches · originally sold in 2020 (per the lot record)

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 440.NX.1100.RX, Big Bang E, originally sold in 2020

Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 456.VX.0130.VX, Big Bang Integrated Time Only Unworn, originally sold in 2024

Wristwatches · originally sold in 2024 (per the lot record)

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 456.VX.0130.VX, Big Bang Integrated Time Only Unworn, originally sold in 2024

Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 441.NM.1171.RX, Big Bang Unico, circa 2025

Wristwatches · c. 2025

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 441.NM.1171.RX, Big Bang Unico, circa 2025

Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 451.CX.1170.CX, Big Bang Integrated Black Magic, circa 2025

Wristwatches · c. 2025

Hublot wristwatch, ref. 451.CX.1170.CX, Big Bang Integrated Black Magic, circa 2025

Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva

Linked through the Atlas maker authority list, which reconciles the spellings used by different institutions. Attributions are as stated by each holding institution or auction house.

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