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Zodiac Sea Wolf (Ref. 699) "Screw-Back Case", 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Zodiac Sea Wolf (Ref. 699) "Screw-Back Case", 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Zodiac (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
ZSW699-2
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (ZSW699-2)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Zodiac Sea Wolf (Ref. 699) "Screw-Back Case" (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number ZSW699-2), this is a wristwatch by Zodiac, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

When it comes to under-the-radar vintage watch companies, Zodiac should be one of the first brands to come to mind. Zodiac made several sports models in the 50s-60s and were direct competitors to Rolex, Blancpain, and Tudor but are often overlooked as they don't receive the same clout as the aforementioned companies. However, this is to the advantage of the collectors that enjoy the subtle, or not so subtle nuances that the Zodiac timepieces carry. The Sea Wolf was introduced first in 1953 (the same year as the Rolex Submariner) and was one of the first diving sports watches marketed for the general public and it performed really well for the brand. SPECS Stock # ZSW699-2 Brand Zodiac Style Sea Wolf Model 699 Serial 121XXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Black Millimeters 35mm Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The early Sea Wolf case features more accentuated lugs than its later variants and the case on this example is exceptional, possibly only polished once in its past the long lugs retain excellent factory dimension with light signs of honest use. The early plated brass "countdown bezel" is very well preserved showing no signs of a previous polish and retains all of its factory enamel with minimal signs of honest use. The case retains its original unsigned crown. The early screw-down case back is rarely seen and shows minimal signs of use, retaining all of its original factory markings in deep and crisp condition. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The early black dial has achieved a beautiful matte texture from age and all of the text and dial printing remains fully intact and present. The radium lume plots and Arabic numerals have aged to a dark patina and retain their original lume but show some light degradation when inspected under U.V. light, which is expected. The early radium dauphine hands retain all of the original lume which has aged to a deep green coloration, under U.V. light inspection the hour hand shows some minor cracking and remains stable, the minute hand is fully intact. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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