Wittnauer Professional Chronograph ref. 7004A, Matte Black Dial

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Wittnauer began in New York in 1885, when Swiss immigrant Albert Wittnauer established a company dedicated to importing finely made Swiss watches for the American market. Rather than competing on volume, Wittnauer built its reputation on precision and practicality, cultivating close relationships with Swiss manufacturers while supplying dependable timepieces to professionals, explorers, and aviators. By the early twentieth century, the brand had become synonymous with robust Swiss craftsmanship tailored to American tastes. The brand passed through several corporate owners in the decades that followed, eventually becoming part of Bulova in 2001, closing the chapter on one of America's most respected names in Swiss watchmaking while leaving behind a remarkably diverse and often under-appreciated legacy. The piece that we have here is very likely what comes to mind when you hear "Wittnauer Chronograph," and for good reason. The proportions are excellent. The size and wearing experience is contemporary. The looks, particularly variants with the brown rotating timing bezel like this example, are excellent. It also happens to be a very close relative to the Wittnauer Ref. 235T, which has left its mark in history as being one of the watches that NASA decided against choosing to go to space with along with a handful of others. The case comes in at 40mm in diameter and features 'faceted' lugs, large 'pump' pushers, a screw-down caseback, a signed, oversize crown. The bracelet is a fantastic period-correct stainless steel 'beads-of-rice' unit with a signed adjustable blade clasp, which shows normal wear that matches that of the case. Inside, the black dial has a sporty and legible matte surface with minimal text rendered in white, an outer tachymeter scale also in white, patinated Tritium indices, and a matching Tritium handset with a massive 'lollipop' seconds hand. This piece is an earlier example dating to circa the 1960s and is powered by Wittnauer's Cal 14Y, which is based on the Landeron 248. As it pertains to vintage collecting, this checks a heck of a lot of boxes; a niche, respected brand, excellent looks, strong condition, and a very interesting story.