
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Wittnauer Professional Chronograph (Ref. 242T) "Valjoux 72", 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Wittnauer (maker)
- Date
- 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 38 mm
- Stock no.
- WITPCH242T
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (WITPCH242T)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1960s Wittnauer Professional Chronograph (Ref. 242T) "Valjoux 72" (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number WITPCH242T), this is a wristwatch by Wittnauer, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 38 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
While Wittnauer certainly isn’t one of the commonly known watch brands, it certainly has the history to rival just about any other out there. Founded in 1885 in New York by Swiss immigrant Albert Wittnauer, the eponymous company set out to craft timepieces designed for exploration and adventure, especially in aviation and sea navigation. In fact, Neil Armstrong wore a Wittnauer for the Gemini 8 mission. Keeping with the space theme, it's long been rumored within the watch community that the Wittnauer Professional Chronograph ref. 242T was one of the watches tested by NASA for flight certification, though this was never proven. What is proven, however, is how incredibly unique and beautiful this watch is. Boasting an impressive 38mm case with intricately tapered lugs, the Wittnauer ref. 242T gives the wearer a truly modern feel on the wrist, however, it's actually the dial that steals the show of this watch. The very space-age dial resembles a solar system with planetary-like lume plots of varying sizes featured around the dial with a dotted minute track that circles the inner portion of the dial. The dial is also fitted with a decimal scale for its outer track and the sub-dials feature a glossy finish around the concentric matte black finish at the center. One might think a watch dial with so many details would come off as busy and difficult to read, but in the case of the Wittnauer Professional ref. 242T, the details are executed in perfect harmony to give the entirety of the watch so much depth and dimension. Stock # WITPCH242T Brand Wittnauer Style Professional Chronograph Model 242T Serial N/A Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black Millimeters 38 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The robust and noble case is believed to remain unpolished, as the long tapered lugs retain untouched chamfers that retain crisp factory edges and dimensions. The case retains its original domed acrylic crystal, which features some minor crazing along with gentle signs of use. The Wittnauer-signed crown is original to the watch, as are the pump pushers. The case back retains its original concentric brushed finish with its factory "Stainless Steel" engraving fully intact. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The matte black dial is in flawless condition, showing no damage or age whatsoever to the dial itself or the sub-dials at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. The tritium lume plots have taken on a beautiful yellow patina and exhibit no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The original tritium hands match the dial perfectly, under U.V. light inspection the hour and minute hands exhibit some very minor lume loss and remain stable, the lollipop chronograph hand shows no degradation. ACCESSORIES
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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