
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Wittnauer Chronograph (Ref. 3256) Exotic Dial, 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Wittnauer (maker)
- Date
- 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- WITT3256-4
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (WITT3256-4)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1960s Wittnauer Chronograph (Ref. 3256) Exotic Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number WITT3256-4), this is a wristwatch by Wittnauer, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
While Wittnauer certainly isn’t one of the commonly known watch brands, it certainly has the history to rival just about any other out there. Founded in 1885 in New York by Swiss immigrant Albert Wittnauer, the eponymous company set out to craft timepieces designed for exploration and adventure, especially in aviation and sea navigation. In fact, Neil Armstrong wore a Wittnauer for the Gemini 8 mission. The Wittnauer and Longines relationship dates back to the 1800s when Wittnauer became the official US distributor for Longines watches. Then, in the 1950s Longines actually purchased Wittnauer and the two brands worked harmoniously to produce some of the most beautiful wristwatches of the mid 21st century, most notably their chronographs. The Wittnauer Chronograph ref. 3256 is the perfect representation of the Longines x Wittnauer relationship. A watch that spared no expense with its beautiful case design, intricate beveling, unique handset, and "exotic" multi-tonal dial that's full of blues and greys with pops of red throughout. SPECS Stock # WITT3256-4 Brand Wittnauer Style Chronograph Model 3256 Serial 64XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Grey / Blue / White / Black / Red Millimeters 35.5 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The beautiful case is exceptionally well-preserved, with multi-angle lugs that are believed to be unpolished and exhibit light wear from use. The case retains its original pump pushers and Wittnauer signed crown. The case back is also in excellent condition showing no major signs of use and only light tooling marks. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original and colorful dial is in near-flawless condition, with only the slightest marks of age. The dial is split into thirds, with the top and bottom thirds being a medium grey, and the middle third featuring the white subdials and a blue center square where the handset anchors. The tachometer is a dark blue for the first quarter, and black for the remainder of it. The painted blue sub-dial hands coordinate with the dial, and the second hand adds a nice pop of red to complement some of the other red markers across the dial. The tritium lume plots have achieved a gorgeous golden patina and only exhibit degradation in the 3 and 9 o'clock plots which is very common for this dial. The original and unique "window-style" tritium hands match the dial perfectly with no degradation present under UV light inspection. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, the previous service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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