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Vacheron Constantin 'Fancy' Lug Dress Watch, Rose Gold with Silver 'Tapestry' Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Vacheron Constantin 'Fancy' Lug Dress Watch, Rose Gold with Silver 'Tapestry' Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Vacheron Constantin (maker)
Date
c. mid 1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
rose gold
Stock no.
OC2789
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2789)
Catalogue title (original)
Vacheron Constantin 'Fancy' Lug Dress Watch - Rose Gold w/ Silver 'Tapestry' Dial (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2789), this is a wristwatch by Vacheron Constantin, made in Switzerland, dated c. mid 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: rose gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Vacheron Constantin can trace its roots back to 1755 and along with only a handful of other brands, is credited as one of the oldest manufacturers of mechanical clocks, pocket-watches, and of course, watches. In fact, Vacheron enjoys the prestige as the oldest continually operating manufacturer that still operates today. Vacheron is also a member of what has become known as The Holy Trinity , along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. All three of these manufactures have very different identities and focus areas within the industry, with VC generally regarded as the technical innovator. And despite a bevy of both technical and mechanical firsts, including the most complicated watch ever at the time of writing this, VC remains the lesser known name of the three in the broader watch community and certainly least understood. The piece that we have here dates to circa the mid 1950s and is quintessentially Vacheron. The case is crafted out of solid rose gold and possesses beautiful sculpted 'fancy' lugs, a rose gold crown, and a snap-back caseback. It has been lightly previously polished and shows normal wear otherwise, retaining defined finishing throughout with correct factory proportions. Inside, it's Vacheron-ness continues, with an incredibly dynamic dial. Silver in color, it features beautiful 'tapestry' textured dial with a 'guilloché' outer minute track, applied indices with quadrant 'Arabic' indices, and a matching 'pencil' handset. It is powered by Vacheron's manual-winding Cal. P454/5B movement. This piece is simultaneously elevated and restrained. The small details on the dial and intricacies of the case require a closer look to really be appreciated, and lets be honest, that is exactly what Swiss watchmaking is all about.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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