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Vacheron Constantin Calatrava Style Dresswatch Two-Tone Dial in Screw Down Steel Case, early 1950 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Vacheron Constantin Calatrava Style Dresswatch Two-Tone Dial in Screw Down Steel Case, early 1950

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Vacheron Constantin (maker)
Date
early 1950
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
steel
Dimensions
Case 32 mm
Stock no.
W-3744
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3744)
Catalogue title (original)
Vacheron Constantin Calatrava Style Dresswatch Two-Tone Dial in Screw Down Steel Case (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3744), this is a wristwatch by Vacheron Constantin, made in Switzerland, dated early 1950. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: steel. Recorded dimensions: Case 32 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

Founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin is the world’s oldest continuously operating watchmaker. Renowned for its high-complication timepieces and “Holy Trinity” status, the firm became “Vacheron & Constantin” in 1819 after François Constantin joined to expand its international presence. The brand registered its iconic Maltese Cross logo in 1880. Presented here is a “Calatrava-style” dress watch from the early 1950s, executed in a 32 mm steel case. Notably, it features a screw-down case back—an uncommon detail for the period. The case is further distinguished by elegant curved lugs and a small, refined winding crown. The dial is beautifully executed with a two-tone finish: a brushed inner sector with a small running seconds at 6 o’clock, and an outer ring with a contrasting brushed texture. It features six applied Arabic numerals and six applied dot markers in gold tone, complemented by fine, non-luminous leaf-shaped hands. The watch is paired with a Bulang and Sons leather strap, and its hand-wound calibre 453 has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. A timeless expression of mid-century watchmaking ,for those who appreciate understated excellence, get in touch to get you this marvel! Specifications: Vacheron Constantin Dresswatch 332 mm steel case with screw down case back Movement 455xxxx/ Case 28701x dates to the early 1950's Silvered, two-tone dial with applied Arabic hour markers, small seconds Non lumed leaf style hands Calibre 453 hand wound movement Bulang and sons leather strap Fully serviced d by our watchmaker

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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