
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub (Ref. 869116/02) Mk.2, 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Unrecorded in source
- Date
- 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 38 mm
- Stock no.
- UGPR869116/02
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (UGPR869116/02)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1960s Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub (Ref. 869116/02) Mk.2 (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number UGPR869116/02), this is a wristwatch, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 38 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
One of the most notable Universal Geneve watches of the post-war era was the Polerouter. Designed by Gerald Genta . Genta was recruited by Universal Genève SA, which was at the time one of the most recognized watch companies in both Europe and the U.S. mostly recognized for the company's chronograph models. After Universal Genève settled a patent dispute regarding the micro-rotor caliber of movement, The Polerouter was originally manufactured as the Polarouter in 1954, containing the Cal. 138SS bumper movement. Then quickly replaced in 1958 with the new Cal. 215 microtor movement and a subtle name change from Polarouter to Polerouter. The Polerouter was then manufactured until late 1969. The Polerouter had taken on many variations within its first 15 years of production including Polerouter de luxe, Polerouter Genève, Polerouter Compact, Polerouter Super, Polerouter "NS", Polerouter III, Polerouter Jet, and the Polerouter Sub. If you don't know the name Gerald Genta, This is the same man responsible for designing some of the most iconic timepieces in existence including the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak This specific Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub is a highly collectible beautifully well-maintained piece of history. Designed by arguably one of the most influential watch designers to ever be recognized. This watch is a stand out in any collection with an interesting background. SPECS Stock # UGPR869116/02 Brand Universal Geneve Style Diver Model Polerouter Sub Serial N/A Size Men's Material SS Dial Matte Black (Mk.2) Millimeters 38mm Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The excellent asymmetrical case is believed to be unpolished, retaining its factory finishing and showing honest signs of use. The original bezel shows some light wear but remains deep black in coloration and is missing its tritium pearl at 12 o'clock. The case retains its original crown. The case back shows signs of use and the serial number has worn. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The matte black Mk.2 dial with white and red accents is in wonderful vintage condition with only very minor signs of aging. The tritium lume plots have taken on a wonderful creamy golden patina exhibit no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The original tritium hands match the dial nicely and show no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The art deco font date wheel is original and correct for this watch. ACCESSORIES None. Watch is functioning and keeping time perfectly, previous service history is unknown
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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