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Universal Geneve Polerouter Second Gen, 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Polerouter Second Gen, 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
Product 1375326470231
Credit line
Dealer listing, S.Song Watches (product 1375326470231)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Geneve Polerouter Second Gen (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by S.Song Watches (dealer), Seattle (stock number Product 1375326470231), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

The Polerouter is one of Universal Geneve’s most iconic watches and the first Polerouters were designed by Gerald Genta, famed for designing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus amongst others. The Polerouter Sub, a later evolution of the original dress watch, was made for diving and featured a much bulkier asymmetric case and was made for diving. There were many iterations of the Polerouter Sub and this version with its aluminium bezel and quirky dial design is a second generation. The second generation Polerouter Sub has one of the more unique dial designs I’ve seen with very stylised exploding Arabic numerals at 12,6 & 9. Its asymmetrical stainless steel case is utilitarian in its design and it comes further equipped with a screw down crown. This Polerouter Sub is powered by an in-house UG 1-69 Microrotor movement and it is a really nice movement both architecturally and technically. It was very uncommon to see a movement with a micro-rotor back in the day and without the traditional big rotor getting in the way, you get to see the entire UG movement in all of its glory. Universal Geneves in general have been very hot lately and this Polerouter Sub is no exception. They are very rare pieces and to find one with this patina and condition is not easy!

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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