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Universal Geneve Polerouter NS Ref. 869108/04, 1966 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Polerouter NS Ref. 869108/04, 1966

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1966
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
UGPR 869108/04
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (UGPR 869108/04)
Catalogue title (original)
1966 Universal Geneve Polerouter NS Ref. 869108/04 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number UGPR 869108/04), this is a wristwatch, made in Switzerland, dated 1966. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

One of the most notable Universal Geneve watches of the post-war era was the Polerouter. Designed by Gerald Genta . Genta was recruited by Universal Genève SA, which was at the time one of the most recognized watch companies in both Europe and the U.S. mostly recognized for the companies chronograph models. After Universal Genève settled a patent dispute regarding the micro-rotor caliber of movement, The Polerouter was originally manufactured as the Polarouter in 1954, containing the Cal. 138SS bumper movement. Then quickly replaced in 1958 with the new Cal. 215 micro rotator movements and a subtle name change from Polarouter to Polerouter. The Polerouter was then manufactured until late 1969. The Polerouter had taken on many variations within its first 15 years of production including Polerouter de luxe, Polerouter Genève, Polerouter Compact, Polerouter Super, Polerouter "NS", Polerouter III, Polerouter Jet, and the Polerouter Sub. On The C+T Blog What Is On My Wrist: The Universal Geneve Polerouter If you don't know the name Gerald Genta, This is the same man responsible for designing some of the most iconic timepieces in existence including the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak This specific Universal Geneve Polerouter NS is a beautifully well-maintained piece of history, remaining 100% original. Designed by arguably one of the most influential watch designers to ever be recognized. This watch is a stand out in any collection with an interesting background. SPECS Stock # UGPR 869108/04 Brand Universal Geneve Style Dress Model Polerouter NS Serial 21XXXXXX Size Men's Material SS Dial Matte Black Millimeters 35mm Bracelet 2pc Leather Strap (Textured Calfskin) CASE & BRACELET The case of this 1966 Universal Geneve Polerouter NS Ref. 869108/04 has been previously been polished but retains the factory beveling. The serial number and reference are clear and visible on teh caseback. The crown is also original showing the signed showing teh signature Universal Geneve U on the crown. Watch comes supplied with a 2pc leather strap or NATO strap of your choosing. DIAL & HANDS The matte black dial with single red crosshair remains in good vintage condition. The lume plots are present and have achieved a charming golden patina although some are missing or show degradation from age. The original hands remain in excellent condition and although The watch retains the original date wheel featuring art deco numerals as well and its original crystal with the magnifying cyclops under the crystal. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is running at spec and is in perfect working condition. Additional service history is unknown.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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