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Universal Geneve Polerouter 20217-4, 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Polerouter 20217-4, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
Product 4368126148695
Credit line
Dealer listing, S.Song Watches (product 4368126148695)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Geneve Polerouter 20217-4 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by S.Song Watches (dealer), Seattle (stock number Product 4368126148695), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

A perennial favourite amongst vintage collectors, the Universal Geneve Polerouter is an oddity, going against common collecting convention. Famous for being designed by a young Gerald Genta, who incidentally also designed the two most iconic watches of the 20th century (Royal Oak and Nautilus), the Polerouter is very well just as iconic. I suppose one has to strap one on the wrist to realise how good it just is. Great design is often not very obvious, and felt rather than observed. The Polerouter perfectly epitomises this notion, as it might not be very overwhelming in photographs, but when you strap it on the wrist, you realise how well the twisted lugs rests on your wrists and how the circular case is juxtaposed with the boxy overall feel achieved thorough the wide lugs. And then the glossy dial, beautifully executed with a crosshair and luminous markers, the outer imposing silver track is perhaps what makes this watch so unique. It certainly carries that Madmen-esque vintage dress feel. With these earlier models powered by the UG bumper Cal. 138ss and this particular reference sized slightly larger than most at 35mm, it is the reference to get in my opinion.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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