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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve, Fab Suisse, Jumbo Dress Watch, circa 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
c. 1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 36 mm
Stock no.
vws3823
Credit line
Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws3823)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Geneve - FAB SUISSE - Jumbo Dress Watch - c.1950s (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws3823), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist

A Beautiful and Well Preserved Vintage Jumbo Universal Geneve Dress Watch in Stainless Steel with Beautiful Teardrop Lugs, c.1950s Founded in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, Universal Genève quickly gained a reputation for innovation and elegance in watchmaking. Known for pioneering the chronograph wristwatch and introducing the iconic Tri-Compax in 1944, the brand became a favourite among collectors and style icons. Universal Genève combined Swiss precision with avant-garde design, producing legendary models like the Polerouter, designed by Gérald Genta. Whats on offer This elegant Universal Genève Jumbo Dress Watch is a standout example of mid-century Swiss refinement, distinguished by its rare 36mm stepped stainless steel case — a generous size for its era and a watch that wears beautifully on the wrist today. This Universal Geneve watch features striking fancy teardrop lugs, adding a beautiful design detail to its otherwise minimalist profile. The dial is a subtle silver tone with a sunburst finish and boasts delicate gilt leaf hands and applied raised Arabic numerals. A well-proportioned sub-seconds dial is positioned at 6 o’clock. The minimalist “Universal Genève FAB. SUISSE” signature sits proudly beneath 12 o’clock, a hallmark of export models destined for the French-speaking market. The watch is powered by the manual-wind Universal Calibre 262, a reliable in-house movement known for its fine finishing and precise engineering. This Universal Genève dress watch is in excellent vintage condition, showing only light, age-appropriate wear. The stainless steel stepped case remains sharp with well-preserved edges and minimal surface marks. The silver-tone dial is clean and evenly aged, with all gilt hands and raised Arabic numerals intact and clearly defined. The teardrop lugs are crisp and retain their elegant shape. The acrylic crystal is clear, and the crown appears original. A beautifully kept example of a mid-century classic.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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