Universal Genève Compax ref. 124113, 'Climate Proof'

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Universal Genève was one of the many great brands that succumbed to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. While they disappeared, it was not for their lack of impressive watches. To underscore that fact, keep in mind that Henri Stern Watch Agency in their nearly 80-year history has only ever sold two brands: Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève. Far simpler than their perhaps more well-known high complication ‘Tri-Compax,' this piece comes from the long-running family of 'Compax' watches, which it shares its name with. Some of which were produced with specific use-cases in mind (e.g., Film-Compax, Medico-Compax, Dato-Compax, etc.), in different metals, sizes, etc., with this piece being a relatively straightforward three-register chronograph. The Ref. 124113 that we have here is not just an ordinary Compax, rather a 'Climate Proof' Compax. The general belief is that the idea behind these pieces was that the cases possessed a few features that would, in theory, help these watches fair better in moist/humid climates with a new pusher design, as well as having increased resistance to dust with an inner dust shield over the movement. Unfortunately, as with a vast majority of chronographs from this era, they did not fair much better. Most of the dials in Climate Proofs bear the usual degradation or patina found on the dials of chronographs produced in the 1930s-1960s. That said, the example that we have here has faired very well and comes to us in beautifully preserved condition. Dating to circa 1951, the case shows signs of a very light previous polishing, while retaining correct proportions and with clear hallmarks and engravings. The rose gold crown and 'pump' pushers all show matching wear from age. Inside, the silver dial has a vertically 'brushed' textured finishing, with beautifully preserved text and printing throughout, 'concentric' subsidiary registers, and applied rose gold indices. The rose gold 'feuille' handset with blued-steel chronograph hands is also beautifully preserved. Powering this piece is Universal Genève's own Cal. 285 manual winding movement. There is a theory floating around that these were produced for the South American market, as all known Climate Proofs were produced in solid rose gold — a popular choice in this part of the world. Examples in this kind of condition simply do not surface on the open market all that often... and with the recent re-launch of the brand, collectors seem to be holding on to pieces like this, making for a great opportunity to grab this one.